I received the following products complimentary for testing purposes from Influenster and Pureology. The following is my honest review.
Shop my photos: Pureology | Dress & Heels.
In the box:
I was sent the Pureology Strength Cure collection that included; 9fl oz Shampoo, 9fl oz Conditioner, & 4.9fl oz Miracle Filler (spray). These products can be purchased online via Pureology, Ulta, & Sephora. The pricing for these are as follows: Shampoo - $30.50, Conditioner - $32.50, Miracle Filler - $29.00. The price does not really vary for these products and are within $1-$2, where I could find it in-stock. I am really fond of the scent of the products, although it was slightly strong.
Pureology Strength Cure Shampoo & Conditioner is made for damaged, colored hair, Pureology Strength Cure sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner fortifies and repairs while leaving hair touchably soft. It Repairs damage, gives hair strength and softness, helps prevent future damage, ZeroSulfate®, 100% vegan formula, color protection from patented Antifade Complex®, results after just one use.
The shampoo & conditioner have a floral-peach scent and the filler spray has a floral-pear scent. The Shampoo and Conditioner are concentrated - so a little goes a long way! I forgot this a time or two... But because they're so concentrated, they should last you a decent amount of time. I probably used more than I needed a time or two, simply because I'm not used to using such concentrated products. I think this helps with the fact that it's on the higher end of the cost spectrum, that is if you are used to buying your hair care from big box stores that retail their products for under $10. Salon quality usually comes with a higher price tag but also is a much higher quality of product.
My Hair:
I have straight to wavy, color treated, long, fine hair. I try to not wash my hair daily, but generally about 3 times a week if I can help it. I also rarely use heat (blow dry/flat iron/wand/curling iron) on my hair this time of year (spring/summer). I use a blue/purple shampoo/conditioner/mask about once a week to keep brassiness under control. Lately, I have a habit of using different shampoos/conditioners. I'd say my hair is pretty normal, but because of recently lightening my hair my ends are dry. I typically use hair oil and leave in conditioner to combat tangles out of the shower.
Testing it Out:
Initially, I really liked this whole set (shampoo, conditioner, & miracle filler) for the first handful of washes. The shampoo and conditioner are pretty concentrated, so a little goes a long way (I forgot this a couple times...) and the shampoo gets really foamy. My hair was super soft and very easy to brush - out of the shower. I did not need to use any oil on my hair or leave in conditioner in addition to the Miracle Filler. My hair felt nice and soft and less dry than prior to starting the set. However, after about 3-4 washes (remember, I don’t wash my hair daily), I noticed that my hair started to feel strange and was extremely flat and had no volume (even when I added products). I used it a few more washes and tried different things, also at one point thinking I didn't rinse it out well... But, my hair was almost appearing to feel heavier and almost like the texture was “off”. So, I started sourcing the ingredients on the label to see what was in it, to make my hair feel the way it did. I stopped using it at this point, but I used about 1/4-1/3 of the bottle.
Shop my photos: Pureology | Dress & Heels.
Looking at the Label:
After looking through some of the ingredients, on the shampoo label, I noticed it was silicone based (I noticed "dimethicone" a couple times on the shampoo label). It specifically contains: dimethicone & amodimethicone - a synthetic form of silicone. Which explains why my hair appeared so soft after using it. But then after a few more uses, became odd feeling and I did not like it. My hair was flat and lifeless albeit soft and easily to brush. I stopped using this product after this. Off topic, but links are in the ingredient section about silicone hair care. See: DIVINYLDIMETHICONE/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER & AMODIMETHICONE (use edit: find).
I looked up a handful of ingredients so, at this point, I had the novel idea to source the ingredients. I'd specifically wanted list ingredients that had a caution flag. Since that section is so lengthy; I've put that part as well as how I went down a rabbit hole after final thoughts (it's doubtful many, if anyone will read it).
Final Thoughts:
Even though I did not love this for my hair, I think that this could be an option for someone with highly damaged and colored hair that uses heated styling products frequently. Just because it didn't work for me, does not mean that it wouldn't work well for someone else. Perhaps, keeping it handy and not using it for every wash. The shelf life for all 3 products is 12 months. I'm going to hold onto it and I may even use it when my hair feels dry or after coloring. The ingredients are vegan and although there is not a leaping bunny logo or statement on the bottle, Pureology’s website states they do not test on animals. Note: some of the ingredients can be sourced from different sources, including animals. I'm going to assume (although assumptions are generally bad) that the ingredients that are generally derived from animals are synthetic or plant based (the label states it's vegan), like LACTAMIDE MEA, ARGININE (others that are potentially animal derived have a bunny emoji beside the ingredient). I have not contacted Pureology for comment.
Ingredients:
This is where I absolutely went down the rabbit hole and once I started, I didn't look back. I-got-in-deep. So, sourcing cosmetic ingredient labels is not for the faint of heart. This part took a lot of time (mainly typing up) and it wasn't until after I was already several ingredients in, that I started to think that maybe it wasn't such a great idea because no one would read it. But on the other hand, it also got my cogs turning.
So, from what I've read and understand - many of the ingredients listed below are commonly found in your personal products (even food), but if you don't check out your label - how would you know....? I did not have any adverse reactions to this shampoo, conditioner, and leave-in spray. However, many of the ingredients [below] are flagged as skin irritants as well as general caution... But honestly, I feel like hypersensitive individuals would be more likely to have an unfavorable reaction. But, it's also important to note that, many of these ingredients are regulated by the amount that can be used for certain products (in food/cosmetics/etc). The FDA as well as individual countries have set limits for many ingredients for this very reason, in the best attempt keep us safe.
I am also not a chemist, nor do I have any idea the actual concentration that is in the products, just that the cosmetic ingredient listed was a potential irritant by the sources I used. For the background and authenticity of my sources, you can that by the links to their sites below. So really, take it with what you will - a grain of salt or whatever. But my intentions were to see what was in the product when my hair started to feel funny and that I did find out, and then some. So lets put in a disclaimer - I am not a doctor, chemist, or affiliated with Pureology and do not take this as medical advice. Seek a doctor or medical professional for that. I have not seeked comment from Pureology. This is just an opinion piece, so take it as that, an opinion.
I don't think I will break down an entire label again, publicly. Perhaps, pull and source the ingredients that think may be troublesome - in this instance, for me was the silicones that are present in each product. But, I think there is too much information to go through for anyone to really make sense of it all as well as conflicting information out in the world. So, I started thinking... why don't companies share this information with us - the consumers? Even if we don't understand it all. I'd like to know what's in my products? How is it is sourced? Is it sustainable (like the potential palm oil derivatives in these products)? Potential irritants (skin/lung/etc)? Animal friendly? Tested on animals - and not just in the US, but in other countries and if it is potentially tested on animals in China or elsewhere. The bottom line - I think that companies need to make this information available to its consumers! We need it in layman's terms - what is that ingredient, what does it do, if there is a limit on the percentage - how much is in the product? I think we, as consumers, have a right to know what is IN our products - not just what's on the label - because let me tell you, it was not an easy task. And even when I did find some of the ingredients, most had inconclusive data and because of that it was considered safe (not knocking Pureology - just as a generality).
So, this was my process; I started with the Chemical Maze App (they use a happy face system for cautions) then would get the score from the EWG website (don't worry the list is below). If the ingredient was not listed in the Chemical Maze App, I would then go down the list of websites (but I didn't always make it down the list for every ingredient, only elusive ones). I would try to find additional information on some ingredients. It's all over the place because I would work on it, put it down, work on it, put it down - and this went on and on for awhile. So, it is likely quite inconsistent. Several times I thought maybe it was a bad idea - but I had spent so much time doing it, I might as well finish what I started. By the way, if you are in school or an english scholar/writer - my sourcing, use of semicolons, and perhaps grammar is quite questionable. But most of this was done in the middle of the night and there are likely many errors. So, forgive me on that one. Brace yourself. This is a long one. Go down the rabbit hole with me this time? Because I likely won't do it again for another blog post.
Shop my photos: Pureology | Dress & Heels.
Sites and or IOS apps I referenced data from - in this order
(I am not endorsed or affiliated with any of the following sites):
- Chemical Maze app
- INCI beauty app
- https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/
- https://www.safecosmetics.org/
- https://cosmeticsinfo.org/
- https://truthinaging.com
- http://www.saapedia.org/
- https://www.skinsafeproducts.com
- https://thegoodfaceproject.com
KEY:
☹ - Some sort of caution is advised via Chemical Maze App. See details on ingredient below
☺ - Appears safe for most people
🌴 - Derived from palm oil/potentially derived
🌽 - Potential GMO
🤷- Limited data, see info below
🛢️ - Derived from petroleum/possibly derived
🐇 - Derived from animals/possibly derived
⭐ - See article for additional information re: ingredient in top 10 worst ingredients via: naturalinstinct.com.au
CIR - Cosmetic Ingredient Review - The CIR Expert Panel, (www.cir-safety.org) is an independent, non-profit scientific body. Established in 1976, the Personal Care Products Council (the Council) initiated the CIR program at the suggestion and with the support of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Consumer Federation of America (CFA). CIR assesses the safety of ingredients used in cosmetic and personal care products in the U.S. The CIR Expert Panel consists of world-renowned scientists and physicians who have been publicly nominated by consumer, scientific and medical groups, government agencies, and industry. The CIR and its review process are independent from the Council and the cosmetics industry, although the program is funded by industry to support the administrative staff. Members of the Panel must meet the same conflict of interest requirements regarding financial interests as special non-government advisory experts to FDA. (via Cosmetics Info).
Bold ingredients repeat, from the Shampoo
Highlighted ingredients repeat, from the Conditioner to the Spray
((This key is shared again, below)
Pureology Strength Cure Shampoo, Ingredients: ((at the bottom, conditioner and filler spray are listed))
WATER ☺, SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE🛢️☺, DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE ☹🌴, SODIUM LAURYL SULFOACETATE 🌴☺, SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINATE ☹, COCO-BETAINE ☺, GLYCOL DISTEARATE🐇🌽🌴🛢️☺, GLYCERETH-26 🤷, DECYL GLUCOSIDE 🌽☺, COCONUT ACID ☺, SODIUM HYDROXIDE ☹, PARFUM / FRAGRANCE☹, SODIUM ISETHIONATE🛢️☺, CITRIC ACID🌽☺, PPG-5-CETETH-20 🤷, SODIUM CHLORIDE ☺, DIVINYLDIMETHICONE/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER ⭐🤷, POLYQUATERNIUM-7 ☹, AMODIMETHICONE⭐ ☹, POLYQUATERNIUM-10 ☺, CARBOMER🛢️☺, ACRYLATES COPOLYMER ☹, PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE 🤷, PROPYLENE GLYCOL 🛢️☹, C11-15 PARETH-7🛢️☺, HEXYL CINNAMAL ☹, BENZOIC ACID 🛢️☹, LAURETH-9🤷 , BUTYLENE GLYCOL🛢️☺, GLYCERIN🐇🌽🌴☺, LINALOOL ☹, TOCOPHEROL🌽☺, OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OIL / OLIVE FRUIT OIL ☺, CAMELINA SATIVA SEED OIL ☺, TRIDECETH-12 🛢️☺, SALICYLIC ACID ☹🛢️, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED EXTRACT / SUNFLOWER SEED EXTRACT ☺, SODIUM BENZOATE 🛢️☹, MAGNESIUM NITRATE 🤷☺, BENZYL ALCOHOL 🛢️☹, C12-13 PARETH-23 🤷, C12-13 PARETH-3🛢️☺, HYDROLYZED VEGETABLE PROTEIN PG-PROPYL SILANETRIOL🤷, LIMONENE☹, ARGININE🐇 ☺, [2-OLEAMIDO-1,3-OCTADECANEDIOL] 🤷, POLY(LINSEED OIL)🤷, BENZOPHENONE-4🛢️☹, PHENOXYETHANOL🛢️☹ , CITRONELLOL☹, CI 14700 / RED 4☹, METHYLCHLOROISOTHIAZOLINONE☹, SORBIC ACID☹🛢️, HAEMATOCOCCUS PLUVIALIS EXTRACT🤷, MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE ☺, METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE☹, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE🐇🌴☺, POTASSIUM SORBATE🛢️☹, CI 15510 / ORANGE 4⭐🤷
((Ingredient list is shared again, below))
Pureology Strength Cure Shampoo, Ingredients: (the 🤷& ☹ are referenced)
- DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE - Disodium salt of ethoxylated lauryl alcohol and sulfosuccinic acid, may be palm oil derived, petroleum derived. Risk level; caution advised. Potential effects; may be contaminated with ethylene oxide and dioxane. Not assessed for safety in cosmetics by CIR. Functions; cleansing, foam boosting, foaming, surfactant. Potential Effects; may be contaminated with ethylene oxide and dioxane, not assessed for safety in cosmetics by CIR. Possible uses; Cosmetic: body wash, bubble bath, facial cleanser, liquid hand soap, shampoo. Other: unknown. EWG scored a 2 and data limited.
- SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINATE - May be animal derived, restricted or prohibited in cosmetics in Japan. Risk level; caution advised. Functions; Antistatic, cleansing, emulsifying, foaming, hair conditioning, surfactant, viscosity controlling. Potential Effects; Penetration enhancement, Safe for use in rinse-off products, 5% in leave-ons (CIR), Should not be used in products where nitrosamines may be formed (CIR). Possible uses; Cosmetic: body wash, eyeliner, facial cleanser, foundation, shampoo, toothpaste. Other: carpet cleaner, toilet bowl cleaners. EWG scored it a 1-3, depending on usage. The contamination concern was NITROSAMINES. Also suspected to be an environmental toxin and the reference; Environment Canada Domestic Substance List via EWG, more information via the EWG link.
- GLYCERETH-26 - a polyethylene glycol ether of Glycerin. It is an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. I had a hard time figuring out what this was. And there was "limited data" on ewg.org.
- SODIUM HYDROXIDE - Caustic soda, produced by the electrolysis of sodium chloride. Risk level; caution advised. Functions; Buffering, Denaturant. Potential Effects; Damage to the scalp and hair, Dermatitis, Not assessed for safety in cosmetics by CIR, Skin and eye irration, Suspected skin, sense organ, and respiratory toxicity (Scorecard). Possible Uses; Cosmetic: anti-aging, body wash, facial cleanser, hair straighter, moisturiser, shampoo. Other: drain cleaner. Derived from Mineral, Synthetic. Effects on body; Respiratory System. EWG scored 1-4, depending on usage and data; fair. Although it appears to be a potential irritant,t appears to be a common ingredient in many shampoos, moisturizers, and body washes/cleansers.
- PARFUM / FRAGRANCE - Individual ingredients are not identified, mosty synthetic, parfum. Risk level; best avoided. Functions; deodorant, masking, perfuming. Potential effects; allergic reactions, asthma, not assessed for safety in cosmetics by CIR, suspected immuno and neurotoxicity. Possible uses; Cosmetic: most cosmetic products, Other: household products. Effects on body: immune system, nervous system. EWG scored 8, data fair. Fragrances can contain multiple chemicals, but is also considered a "trade secret". Read more on this at safecosmetics.org.
- PPG-5-CETETH-20 - an emollient and surfactant found in beauty products and cosmetics. According to Truth in Aging, there isn't much information about this product but it is found in many products. EWG scored 1-3 depending on usage and data limited.
- DIVINYLDIMETHICONE/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER - a silicone, synthetic polymer commonly found in shampoos. Produces a continuous film on hair (skin or nails), can make hair easier to comb/more manageable. EWG scored 1 with no data. The word Dimethicone got a few hits though, especially an article from one of the beauty writers from Cosmo and then I knew where I had herd the term (not that specific article, but in passing). So, I don't know if it has the same reputation or not. Byrdie ran an article as well regarding silicones in hair products.
- POLYQUATERNIUM-7 - a quaternary ammonium compound (synthetic compound). Risk level; caution advised. Functions; antistatic, film forming. Potential effects; may contain traces of highly toxic acrylamide, mild eye irritation, safe as used up to 5% (CIR). Possible uses; Cosmetic: body wash, bubble bath, conditioner, facial cleanser, liquid hand soap, shampoo. Other: unknown. EWG scored 1-4, depends on usage, data is limited.
- AMODIMETHICONE - a siloxane polymer, synthetic silicone. Risk level; caution advised. Functions; antistatic, hair conditioning. Potential effects; environmental hazard. Safe as used up to 3% (CIR), see silicones and siloxanes. Possible uses; Cosmetic: conditioner, hair color and bleach, hair spray, shampoo, other: unknown. EWG scored 1, data limited. According to INCI beauty, "amodimethicone is a silicone derived from dimethicone, used primarily in shampoos and hair care for its electrostatic properties. It makes the hair soft, manageable and shiny. The advantage of this silicone over dimethicone is that, although it is difficult to remove with a shampoo, it prevents other polymers of the same type from being able to "re-deposit" on itself, [whereas] dimethicone which makes the hair heavy, no longer exists here. Like dimethicone, the molecule does not pose a particular problem for human health (directly in any case). However, it is not very biodegradable and its impact on the planet both from the point of view of its manufacture and of its release into nature does not."
- ACRYLATES COPOLYMER - Derived from petroleum. Safe for use when formulated to avoid irritation (CIR); skin and eye irritant. Functions; antistatic, binding, film forming. EWG scored 2, data limited.
- PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE - via cosmetics info; Although there appears to be a large variation in the mix of monomers used in the synthesis of these copolymers and polymers, they are similar in that the polymers, except for dermal irritation, are not significantly toxic. Residual monomer levels are kept as low as possible. Although the monomers may produce adverse effects under some circumstances, the levels found in cosmetics and personal care products are not considered to present a safety risk. EWG scored 1-3, data limited.
- PROPYLENE GLYCOL - Derived from petroleum, an additive; humectant, skin conditioning, solvent, viscosity controlling. Risk level; best avoided. Potential effects: contact urticaria, eczema, penetration enhancement, safe when formulated to be non irritating (CIR), sensitisation, suspected respiratory, immuno, and neurotoxicity (scorecard). Effects on body; immune system, nervous system, respiratory system, & skin ailments. EWG scored 3, data fair. The FDA considers this safe and is not restricted in the EU.
- HEXYL CINNAMAL - is an additive (perfuming), restricted in cosmetics in the EU. Potential effects; allergic reactions, contact dermatitis, not assessed for safety in cosmetics by CIR, skin irritation. EWG scored 3, data limited. But, note that the allergies and immunotoxicity section was set to, "high". According to truthinaging.com, it is a natural ingredient derived from chamomile oil used to perfume or mask. It is FDA approved for topical use in skin care and cosmetics in low concentrations.
- BENZOIC ACID - Petroleum derived, produced commercially from toluene. A bulking, masking, preservative. May cause irritation to eyes, mouth or lips. Safe with qualifications (CIR). Skin and eye irritation, suspected respiratory, & neurotoxicity (scorecard). Effects on body; nervous system, respiratory system. EWG scored 1-3, data good. Since this was conflicting, I looked at cosmetics info and found this; Clinical data indicated that in a few individuals these ingredients produced non-immunologic contact urticaria and non-immunologic immediate contact reactions, characterized by the appearance of wheals, erythema, and pruritis. In one study, 5% Benzyl Alcohol elicited a reaction, and in another study, 2% Benzoic Acid did likewise. Benzyl Alcohol, however, was not a sensitizer at 10%, nor was Benzoic Acid a sensitizer at 2%. Recognizing that the non-immunologic reactions were strictly cutaneous, likely involve a cholinergic mechanism, it was concluded that these ingredients could be used safely at concentrations up to 5%. Additionally, Benzyl Alcohol was considered safe at up to 10% for use in hair dyes.The limited body exposure, the duration of use, and the frequency of use were considered in concluding that the non-immunologic reactions would not be a concern (yeah, a lot of jargon...). In Japan, Benzoic Acid is limited to .2 grams per 100 grams. According to the WHO, Examples of upper concentrations allowed in food are up to 0.1% benzoic acid (USA) and between 0.15% and 0.25% (other countries) (Chipley, 1983). The European Commission limits for benzoic acid and sodium benzoate are 0.015–0.5% (EC, 1995). This topic was like going down a rabbit hole since it's a preservative, apparently used in a wide variety of products, including food and drinks (and occurs naturally in many foods, including milk).
- LAURETH-9 -
- LINALOOL - is a naturally occuring fragrance substance that can occur in a variety of plants. Can also be created synthetically. Primary functions are as a deodorant or perfume. Potential effects are allergic reactions, facial psoriasis, not assessed for safety in cosmetics by CIR, skin irritation. EWG scored a 3, data fair. But, note that the allergies and immunotoxicity section was set to, "high".
- SALICYLIC ACID - Can be made commercially from sodium phenoxide. May be petroleum derived, restricted in cosmetics in Japan and Canada (more below). Functions; anti dandruff, hair conditioning, keratolytic, masking, preservative, skin conditioning. Potential effects; penetration enhancement, persistent and bio-accumulative in wildlife, safe when formulated to avoid irritation and to avoid increasing sun sensitivity (CIR), skin irritation, skin rash, suspected skin or sense organ and cardiovascular toxicity (scorecard). Effects on body; cardiovascular system. EWG scored 1-3, depends on usage but data good. Salicylic acid can help control dandruff as well as moisturize the scalp. Salicylic Acid is a BHA, beta hydroxy acid and is the most commonly used in cosmetics. The long-term safety of salicylic acid in cosmetics also is being evaluated in studies initiated by FDA and sponsored by the National Toxicology Program. Products containing it should contain a sunscreen or provide information to users to use other sun protection. In Europe, max use is 0.5%. Australis a product containing more than 10% glycolic acid is hazardous. (via cosmetic regulations powerpoint). In Japan, max use is .20g per 100g.
- SODIUM BENZOATE - (note this is a "cousin" of benzoic acid) Petroleum derived, sodium salt of benzoic acid. Functions; anti-corrosive, masking, preservative. Potential effects; contact dermatitis, insufficient data to support safety in products that are inhaled (CIR), safe for use in all cosmetic formulations up to 5% (CIR), suspected cardiovascular, liver, kidney, and neurotoxicity (scorecard), suspected skin or sense organ toxicity (scorecard), urticaria (nettle rash or hives). Effects on body; cardiovascular system, gastrointestinal system, and liver, kidneys, nervous system. EWG scored a 1-3, data fair. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that these ingredients were safe for use in cosmetic products. The safety of Benzyl Alcohol and Benzyl Benzoate has been evaluated by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials Expert Panel (REXPAN), via cosmetics info. Also via cosmetics info; Clinical data indicated that in a few individuals these ingredients produced non-immunologic contact urticaria and non-immunologic immediate contact reactions, characterized by the appearance of wheals, erythema, and pruritis. In one study, 5% Benzyl Alcohol elicited a reaction, and in another study, 2% Benzoic Acid did likewise. Benzyl Alcohol, however, was not a sensitizer at 10%, nor was Benzoic Acid a sensitizer at 2%.
Recognizing that the non-immunologic reactions were strictly cutaneous, likely involve a cholinergic mechanism, it was concluded that these ingredients could be used safely at concentrations up to 5%. Additionally, Benzyl Alcohol was considered safe at up to 10% for use in hair dyes.
The limited body exposure, the duration of use, and the frequency of use were considered in concluding that the non-immunologic reactions would not be a concern. It is not banned but being monitored in the US and Europe. - BENZYL ALCOHOL - may be petroleum derived, prepared from benzyl chloride and sodium carbonate. Functions; perfuming, preservative, solvent, viscosity controlling. Potential effects; allergic reactions, classified as harmful if used in products used around the mouth, insufficient data to support safety where inhalation is primary route of exposure (CIR), liver, immuno, and neurotoxicity (scorecard), safe with qualifications (CIR). Effects on body; Gastrointestinal system, live, immune system, nervous system, with skin ailments. EWG scored 1-6, with data fair. But, note that the allergies and immunotoxicity section was set to, "high". The European Union (EU) has stipulated that when used as a preservative, Benzyl Alcohol is restricted to a maximum con- centration of 1% (EU 1995). Benzyl alcohol is an aqueous soluble preservative widely used in injectable pharmaceutical preparations as well as in cosmetic products. Although toxic in neonates and infants, it is generally recognized as safe by the FDA at concentrations up to 5% in adults.
- C12-13 PARETH-23 - This was an ingredient I couldn't find a lot on, but it's cousin; C12-13 PARETH-3, which is also an ingredient I could find info on (considered safe). EWG scored 1, data none. I did find, via, INCI, that it is a cleansing, emulsifying, surfactant.
- HYDROLYZED VEGETABLE PROTEIN PG-PROPYL SILANETRIOL - an ingredient I had a hard time figuring out what it was. EWG scored 1, data none. Via skin safe, I did find that it was considered safe, but it did not give any other details. Special Chem, states that it is classified as hair and skin conditioning.
- LIMONENE - dipentene, obtained from citrus peels and pulp. Functions as a deodorant, perfuming, solvent. Potential effects; not assessed for safety in cosmetics by CIR, sensitisation, skin, eye, and lung irritation, wildlife and environmental toxicity. EWG scored 4-5, data good. But, note that the allergies and immunotoxicity section was set to, "high". Limonene is also used as a synthetic flavoring, via the FDA. Europe, Limonene is included on the list of "allergenic" substances. The European Cosmetics Directive requires manufacturers of cosmetics and personal care products to indicate the presence of certain "allergenic" substances in the list of ingredients if they are present above certain levels in the product (see Annex III). The presence of Limonene must be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds: 0.001% in leave-on the skin products 0.01% in products that are rinsed off the skin, via cosmetics info.
- [2-OLEAMIDO-1, 3-OCTADECANEDIOL] - Again, another ingredient that had little information. Via the good face project, it is an emollient and skin conditioner. Belongs to ceramide ingredients and function primarily as hair conditioning and skin conditioning agents. Used to increase the solubility of sparingly soluble substances in cosmetics. EWG scored 1, data none. This ingredient is present in 0.57% of cosmetics, via INCI beauty.
- POLY(LINSEED OIL) - shockerrrr another cosmetic ingredient that had little information, but linseed oil is apparently widely used in food, animal feed, and cosmetics (and great for finishing wood furniture). It has a variety of functions in cosmetics, such as a fixing agent, film forming agent, hair conditioner, hair fixing agent, curling or straightening agent, and viscosity control, via INCI beauty. I did not find it on EWG, but it did pull some products that contained this ingredient.
- BENZOPHENONE-4 - petroleum derived, see sulisobenzone. Functions; UV absorber, UV filter. (sulisobenzone) Potential effects; contact dermatitis, penetration enhancement, possible photoallergic effects, safe as used up to 2.5% (CIR), sensitisation, suspected endocrine disruption. EWG scored sulisobenzone (could not find sourced ingredient) a 3, data fair. But, note that the allergies and immunotoxicity section was set to, "medium". Benzophenone-1, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-9 and Benzophenone-11 protect cosmetics and personal care products from deterioration by absorbing, reflecting, or scattering UV rays. When used as sunscreen ingredients, Benzophenone-3 and Benzophenone-4 protect the skin from UV rays (cosmetics info, and the following). The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved the use of Benzophenone-3 and Benzophenone-4 as safe and effective, over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreen ingredients. When used as a sunscreen ingredient in the United States, Benzophenone-3 is called Oxybenzone, and may be used at concentrations up to 6%, and Benzophenone-4 is called Sulisobenzone, and may be used at concentrations up to 10%. The safety of Benzophenone-3 and related ingredients has been assessed by the (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Benzophenone-1, -3, -4, -5, -9 and -11 were safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. In 2002, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on these Benzophenone ingredients and reaffirmed the above conclusion.
- PHENOXYETHANOL - derived from phenol and ethylene oxide, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, petroleum derived, restricted in Japan. Functions; fixative, preservative. Potential effects; absorbed via the skin, effects from exposure may include eye irritation, headache, tremors and CNS depression, mild irritation on sensitive skin, safe as used up to 5% (CIR), suspected reproductive and developmental toxicity (scorecard), toxic to the kidneys, the nervous system, and the liver (MSDS). EWG scored 2-4, data limited. Via cosmetics info: Phenoxyethanol is an oily, slightly sticky liquid with a faint rose-like scent. It is used as a preservative (since the 1950's) in a wide variety of both leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics and personal care products, including skin care, eye makeup, fragrances, blushers, foundations, lipstick, bath soaps, and detergents, among others. Phenoxyethanol has been reviewed by experts worldwide who have concluded it is safe as used in these products. It is highly effective in preventing the growth of fungi, bacteria, and yeast that could cause products to spoil, just like food. The use of preservatives enhances products’ shelf life and safety. The maximum concentration in the EU, in ready-for-use preparations is 1.0%. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) reviewed the safety of phenoxyethanol (also called ethylene glycol monophenyl ether) and approved its use as an indirect food additive. (21CFR175.105). The
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel reviewed phenoxyethanol in 1990 by examining available scientific literature and data. Phenoxyethanol was shown to be neither a primary nor cumulative skin irritant; it was neither classified as a skin sensitizer nor phototoxic. Test data showed phenoxyethanol was not genotoxic nor of concern for systemic toxicity. Therefore, it was concluded to be “safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the present practices of use and concentration,” generally < 1%. In a 2007 review of phenoxyethanol, conducted to consider available new data, CIR reaffirmed the original “safe as used” conclusion. - CITRONELLOL - Found in citronella oils, organic compound. Functions; perfuming. Potential effects; allergic reactions, irritation to skin, mouth, eyes, or lips, not assessed for safety in cosmetics by CIR, sensitisation. EWG scored 3-4, data fair. Via, cosmeticsinfo.org; Citronellol is a colorless oily liquid with a floral smell suggestive of rose. In cosmetics and personal care products, Citronellol is used in the formulation of aftershave lotions, bath products, bubble baths, cleansing products, hair care products, lipsticks, moisturizers, perfumes and colognes and skin care products. The safety of Citronellol has been evaluated by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials Expert Panel (REXPAN). Based on this evaluation, an International Fragrance Association (IFRA) Standard has been established. The IFRA Standard restricts the use of Citronellol in fragrances because of potential sensitization. Link to the IFRA Standards: http://www.ifraorg.org/en-us/standards_1 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) defers review of individual fragrance ingredients to the IFRA program unless the ingredient has significant uses other than as a fragrance. In this case, the ingredient may be assessed by both the CIR Expert Panel and REXPAN
- CI 14700 / RED 4 - Synthetic. Function; colorant. Potential effects; not approved in the USA for use around the eyes, not assessed for safety in cosmetics by the CIR. EWG scored 4, data fair. Via cosmetics info; Red 4 (FD&C Red No. 4) and Red 4 Lake are synthetic colorants. Red 4 and Red 4 Lake are used in the formulation of a wide variety of product types, including makeup products, nail polish and skin care products.
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) reviewed the safety of Red 4 and Red 4 Lake and approved the use of these ingredients for coloring externally applied cosmetics (this does not include products intended for use on the lips or the eye area) and personal care products if they conform to FDA specifications. FDA determined that these colors may also be used in coloring externally applied drugs. According to U.S. regulations, all Red 4 and Red 4 Lake that is manufactured for use in products are subject to certification by the FDA. This certification process ensures that the strict chemical and identity specifications set by FDA are met. The (CIR) has deferred evaluation of these ingredients because the safety has been assessed by FDA. This deferral of review is according to the provisions of the CIR Procedures - METHYLCHLOROISOTHIAZOLINONE - Synthetic, preservative. Banned in some cosmetics in Japan, often combined with METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE (3rd ingredient down), restricted in cosmetics in Canada. Function; preservative. Potential effects; allergic reactions, asthma, contact dermatitis, safe with qualifications (CIR), sensitisation, suspected immunotoxicity (scorecard). EWG scored 5, data fair. But, note that the allergies and immunotoxicity section was set to, "medium". Via cosmetics info: In cosmetics and personal care products historically, Methylisothiazolinone, or the mixture, Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone, was used in various rinse-off and leave-on formulations including hair products, shampoos, skin care products, bath products, eye and facial makeup, wet wipes and suntan products. More recently, due to concerns being raised about potentially increasing rates of skin sensitivity to MI, some cosmetic and personal care product manufacturers have begun removing it from leave-on products such as lotions and wipes (more on their website). The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) permits the use of Methylisothiazolinone (2-methyl-4-isothiazoline-3-one) and Methylchloroisothiazolinone (5-Chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one) as indirect food additives, as antimicrobial agents, as components of adhesives and as components of coatings. Based on the results of detailed scientific skin allergy risk assessments and human clinical tests, the CIR Expert Panel reaffirmed their 2010 conclusion that it was safe to use MI in rinse-off product categories at concentrations up to 100 ppm. However, they concluded that MI use in many leave-on product categories would be safe only at concentrations lower than 100 ppm and only when it could be demonstrated that the concentration used does not cause allergic skin reactions.
These recommendations for MI in rinse-off and leave-on cosmetic products were intended to prevent new cases of allergic skin reactions to MI. The CIR Expert Panel cautioned, however, that individuals who know that they are allergic to MI should avoid personal care products that contain MI. - SORBIC ACID - May be petroleum derived. Function; preservative. Potential side effects; safe as used up to 3% (CIR), sensitisation, skin irritation, suspected skin or sense organ toxicity (scorecard), urticaria (nettle rash or hives). EWC scored 2, data fair. Via cosmetics info: Sorbic acid prevents spoilage of beauty products. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) reviewed the safety of Sorbic Acid and Potassium Sorbate and determined that they were Generally Recognized As Safe as preservatives for direct addition to food. Sorbic Acid and Potassium Sorbate are effective for the control of mold and yeast in cheese products, baked goods, fruit juices, fresh fruits and vegetables, wines, soft drinks, pickles, sauerkraut, and certain fish and meat products. The safety of Sorbic Acid and Potassium Sorbate has been assessed by the (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Sorbic Acid and Potassium Sorbate were safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. In 2006, as part of the scheduled re-evaluation of ingredients, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on these ingredients and reaffirmed the above conclusion.
- HAEMATOCOCCUS PLUVIALIS EXTRACT - Extract of various species of algae. Considered safe. EWG score 1, data limited.
- METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE - see, also METHYLCHLOROISOTHIAZOLINONE, above. EWG score 7, data fair.
- POTASSIUM SORBATE - From sorbic acid and potassium hydroxide, petroleum derived, caution advised. Functions; preservative. Potential effects; contact dermatitis, may cause mild skin and eye irritation. Safe as used up to 7% (CIR) Urticaria (nettle rash or hives). EWG score 2, data limited. But, note that the allergies and immunotoxicity section was set to, "medium". Sorbic Acid and Potassium Sorbate are recoginized by the FDA as Generally Recognized As Safe and the CIR concluded that it was safe for use in personal and cosmetic products; via cosmetic info.
- CI 15510 / ORANGE 4 - Synthetic color. In most cases artificial colours are synthetic and derived from coal tar. Coal tar is a mixture of various petroleum-derived chemicals. If not purified well, coal tar can contain traces of heavy metals known to be carcinogens. They may cause hypersensitivity & irritations or clog your pores, leading to breakouts, via natural instinct top 10 worst ingredients. EWG score 2-5, data fair.
KEY:
☹ - Some sort of caution is advised via Chemical Maze App. See details on ingredient below
☺ - Appears safe for most people
🌴 - Derived from palm oil/potentially derived
🌽 - Potential GMO
🤷- Limited data, see info below
🛢️ - Derived from petroleum/possibly derived
🐇 - Derived from animals/possibly derived
⭐ - See article for additional information re: ingredient in top 10 worst ingredients via: naturalinstinct.com.au
CIR - Cosmetic Ingredient Review - The CIR Expert Panel, (www.cir-safety.org) is an independent, non-profit scientific body. Established in 1976, the Personal Care Products Council (the Council) initiated the CIR program at the suggestion and with the support of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Consumer Federation of America (CFA). CIR assesses the safety of ingredients used in cosmetic and personal care products in the U.S. The CIR Expert Panel consists of world-renowned scientists and physicians who have been publicly nominated by consumer, scientific and medical groups, government agencies, and industry. The CIR and its review process are independent from the Council and the cosmetics industry, although the program is funded by industry to support the administrative staff. Members of the Panel must meet the same conflict of interest requirements regarding financial interests as special non-government advisory experts to FDA. (via Cosmetics Info).
Bold ingredients repeat, from the Shampoo
Highlighted ingredients repeat, from the Conditioner to the Spray
Pureology Strength Cure Shampoo, Ingredients:
WATER ☺, SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE🛢️☺, DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE ☹🌴, SODIUM LAURYL SULFOACETATE 🌴☺, SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINATE ☹, COCO-BETAINE ☺, GLYCOL DISTEARATE🐇🌽🌴🛢️☺, GLYCERETH-26 🤷, DECYL GLUCOSIDE 🌽☺, COCONUT ACID ☺, SODIUM HYDROXIDE ☹, PARFUM / FRAGRANCE☹, SODIUM ISETHIONATE🛢️☺, CITRIC ACID🌽☺, PPG-5-CETETH-20 🤷, SODIUM CHLORIDE ☺, DIVINYLDIMETHICONE/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER ⭐🤷, POLYQUATERNIUM-7 ☹, AMODIMETHICONE⭐ ☹, POLYQUATERNIUM-10 ☺, CARBOMER🛢️☺, ACRYLATES COPOLYMER ☹, PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE 🤷, PROPYLENE GLYCOL 🛢️☹, C11-15 PARETH-7🛢️☺, HEXYL CINNAMAL ☹, BENZOIC ACID 🛢️☹, LAURETH-9🤷 , BUTYLENE GLYCOL🛢️☺, GLYCERIN🐇🌽🌴☺, LINALOOL ☹, TOCOPHEROL🌽☺, OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OIL / OLIVE FRUIT OIL ☺, CAMELINA SATIVA SEED OIL ☺, TRIDECETH-12 🛢️☺, SALICYLIC ACID ☹🛢️, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED EXTRACT / SUNFLOWER SEED EXTRACT ☺, SODIUM BENZOATE 🛢️☹, MAGNESIUM NITRATE 🤷☺, BENZYL ALCOHOL 🛢️☹, C12-13 PARETH-23 🤷, C12-13 PARETH-3🛢️☺, HYDROLYZED VEGETABLE PROTEIN PG-PROPYL SILANETRIOL🤷, LIMONENE☹, ARGININE🐇 ☺, [2-OLEAMIDO-1,3-OCTADECANEDIOL] 🤷, POLY(LINSEED OIL)🤷, BENZOPHENONE-4🛢️☹, PHENOXYETHANOL🛢️☹ , CITRONELLOL☹, CI 14700 / RED 4☹, METHYLCHLOROISOTHIAZOLINONE☹, SORBIC ACID☹🛢️, HAEMATOCOCCUS PLUVIALIS EXTRACT🤷, MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE ☺, METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE☹, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE🐇🌴☺, POTASSIUM SORBATE🛢️☹, CI 15510 / ORANGE 4⭐🤷
Pureology Strength Cure Conditioner, Ingredients:
WATER ☺, CETEARYL ALCOHOL🌴☺, BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE ☺, AMODIMETHICONE⭐☹ , PARFUM / FRAGRANCE☹, ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL🛢️☹, PHENOXYETHANOL🛢️☹, BENZOIC ACID🛢️☹, TRIDECETH-6🤷, HEXYL CINNAMAL☹, TOCOPHEROL🌽☺, OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OIL / OLIVE FRUIT OIL ☺, CAMELINA SATIVA SEED OIL ☺, POLY(LINSEED OIL)🤷, BUTYLENE GLYCOL🛢️☺, LINALOOL ☹, POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE ☹, DILAURYL THIODIPROPIONATE ☺, ARGININE 🐇☺, CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE☹, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED EXTRACT / SUNFLOWER SEED EXTRACT ☺, HYDROLYZED VEGETABLE PROTEIN PG-PROPYL SILANETRIOL🤷, LIMONENE☹, [2-OLEAMIDO-1,3-OCTADECANEDIOL]🤷, CITRIC ACID🌽☺, BENZOPHENONE-4 ☹, CITRONELLOL☹, HAEMATOCOCCUS PLUVIALIS EXTRACT🤷, CI 14700 / RED 4☹, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE🐇🌴☺, POTASSIUM SORBATE🛢️☹, CI 15510 / ORANGE 4⭐🤷
Pureology Strength Cure Miracle Filler (Spray), Ingredients:
WATER ☺, COCOS NUCIFERA OIL / COCONUT OIL ☺, AMODIMETHICONE⭐☹, POLYQUATERNIUM-37 ☺, PPG-5-CETETH-10 PHOSPHATE🤷, PHENOXYETHANOL🛢️☹, PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE/DICAPRATE🛢️☺, PARFUM / FRAGRANCE☹, ACETAMIDE MEA🛢️☹, SODIUM HYDROXIDE☹, LACTAMIDE MEA⭐🐇☺, DIMETHICONE PEG-7 PHOSPHATE (aka silicone)⭐, HYDROLYZED VEGETABLE PROTEIN PG-PROPYL SILANETRIOL🤷, PPG-1 TRIDECETH-6 ☺, BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE ☺, TRIDECETH-6🤷, CORIANDRUM SATIVUM SEED OIL / CORIANDER SEED OIL ☺, TOCOPHEROL🌽☺, XYLOSE ☺, BUTYLENE GLYCOL🛢️☺, HEXADIMETHRINE CHLORIDE ☺, SORBITAN OLEATE🐇🌽🌴☺, POLY(LINSEED OIL)🤷, ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL🛢️☹, CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE☹, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED EXTRACT / SUNFLOWER SEED EXTRACT, PROPYLENE GLYCOL🛢️☹, BENZOPHENONE-4 ☹, BENZYL ALCOHOL🛢️☹, GERANIOL☹, POTASSIUM SORBATE🛢️☹, BHT🛢️☹, CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA FLOWER EXTRACT / MATRICARIA FLOWER EXTRACT ☺, CITRUS LIMON FRUIT EXTRACT / LEMON FRUIT EXTRACT ☺, CI 42090 / BLUE 1🛢️⭐☺, CI 17200 / RED 33⭐☺
High fives and positive vibes if you got this far.